Letter from a reader:
Good day sir,
First let me start by saying I'm a huge fan of your blog and style (that's putting it mildly, as I've learned so much from you)
I recently purchased a pair of burgundy wingtips and wanted your opinion. I noticed that not many gents wear the burgundy wingtip and wanted to know if this shoe is still viewed as a staple in every gents closet, such as the double monk and cap toe dress shoe.
I have a beautiful linen suit that was given to me, and I'm afraid unlike my other suits, I have the slightest idea of how line should be tailored. Before I visit my tailor I wanted to be sure of what I wanted in regards to the fit. Linen is a bit different for me. I've owned linen pants but never a suit. That takes things to a whole new level of questions (what shoe, types of ties etc)
Again I appreciate and value your opinion highly.
Thank you for your time,
Gerald, I like the idea of the burgundy wingtips. While true cordovan is much more difficult to come by, shoes in oxblood and burgundy have the same effect and are much easier on the wallet. For men of style, yes, it's certainly a staple. I love the richness of the dark reddish tones beneath a navy or medium grey suit.
It's a pleasant alternative to the black and dark brown shoes that most men likely stick to. While it should be a staple, it's best for it to be purchased after the basics, as it's less versatile.
For linen suits, I've had them tailored similarly to worsteds. Though not as tapered. I like the lack of structure and the summery feel of linen. It shouldn't feel too snug, much like any suit. I prefer the trouser slightly tapered with a cuff and linen tends to sway when I walk, and it just bothers the hell out of me. Though when your tailor sees you in it, he has the most trained eye and can give you the best suggestion.
As far as shoes, I like suede loafers; with or without tassels.
Additionally, lighter calf split toe lace ups or derbies continue the casual nature of a linen suit. What's also crucial about linen is to embrace the wrinkles. I've heard the argument against linen too many times: "It's gonna wrinkle too much." That's fine, let nature take its course. It looks better; more lived in.