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Clothing

Summer Suit with Angel Bespoke

Kamau Hosten

Though the maxim for combating the draining summer heat is to wear less, the clothing-minded man will take no part in this suggestion. Although this is his down season, he has duly brought out his panama hat, string loafers, popovers and unlined jackets while cashmere rests comfortably in his spare closet.

Seersucker, solaro, linen and fresco are all king fabrics of warm-weather due to their breathability. Another, one I’ve just had made, a wool-mohair blend, has proved to be just as effective.

Needing something simple and versatile for the summer, I visited Angel Bespoke, opearted by Angel Ramos, who I’ve come to call a good friend over the years. Ramos’ house style, has a few immediate characteristics that appealed to me: soft shoulder, broad lapels, and nipped waist.

Wool/Mohair Suit by Angel Bespoke, Linen Shirt by Gitman Vintage, String loafers by Meermin, gold rose lapel pin By Elias, frames from SEE Eyewear

Wool/Mohair Suit by Angel Bespoke, Linen Shirt by Gitman Vintage, String loafers by Meermin, gold rose lapel pin By Elias, frames from SEE Eyewear

I went with a 3-roll-2, which is when the top button is essentially a design feature, rather than a useful fastening point. It makes a suit a little less corporate and softens up the image of the wearer.  We discussed lapel width, and I opted for a 4-inch with a higher notch. When the middle button is fastened it lends a dramatic appeal to the V created. Additionally, the relatively closed quarters (below the middle button) coupled with the slightly suppressed waist create a clean silhouette. 

Smaller, but more noticeable details like the Milanese buttonhole and operational sleeve buttons aren’t necessarily useful, but are touches that add a more artisan feel to this suit. The barchetta pocket, which is essentially a curved breast pocket, has a uniquely dashing appeal, especially when compared to its rectangular sibling.

The higher rise allows the trousers to fall more naturally. The inclusion of buttons for braces will ensure the cuff shivers just so over the shoes versus a lower rise, which will inevitably slide down a bit. What's more, the larger waistband is cleaner, giving the suit a uninterrupted look. Low rise waistbands tend to buckle under the pressure of movement throughout the day. What's more, when the jacket is button, a trousers with a proper rise leaves the suit looking finished. Lower rise trousers run the risk of leaving an unflattering bit a shirt showing when the jacket is fastened. 

To complete this summery look, I opted for a decidedly casual button down linen shirt and green neckerchief. The colors pair together nicely and are balanced by a simple white handkerchief.

 

All photos by Bevin Elias